Looking for the Shaman’s Gallery

shamans.jpg shamans2.jpg
Thirteen years ago Louisa and I went into upper Tuckup Canyon in the Grand Canyon looking for a rock art site called the Shaman’s Gallery. We had a pretty good map to go by that was annotated and got us into the area. It was early January. We hiked down into the canyon but were unable to find the sitr. That was mostly because we didn’t know exactly where the site was or what it looked like. We only knew that it was in the upper part of the canyon. It was a nice hike in the canyon with one of my favorite people.
Last week I went back with several friends. We had down loaded and printed a cowboy map from the internet. Having been in the upper Tuckup area before I figured the map, drawn by mule/horse packer Gordon Smith who claims to have “discovered” the site in the 80’s. Never mind that there is old cowboy graffiti at the site.
The Smith map says that after turning left off of the Toroweep Road you just “stick to the main path”.
Can anyone guess which is the “main path”? This fork is right past the first cattle guard, corral and ponds shown on the map. We stuck to the left fork as it looked most traveled and wound up after some pretty extreme 4 wheeling on a hilltop about two miles from the canyon rim.
the-trail.jpg the-crew.jpg 50-mile.jpg
After hiking to the trail head we discovered by checking the GPS that one of my hiking friends had brought that we were at The head of 150 Mile Canyon, about 6.5 miles from the trailhead in Tuckup as the crow flies. Of course we are not crows and would have had to drive back to the corrals and then another 10+ miles back out to the canyon rim at Tuckup.
Cowboy relics encountered along the trail into One Hundred Fifty Mile Canyon.

It was a nice day and the country was beautiful. The Shaman’s Gallery will have to wait for another day….again. Next time we bring real maps. Here are some of what we saw while camped out at Toroweep.
Looking west from the Toroweep overlook at the end of the day.
Lava Falls is awe inspiring even from 3k’ up.
sunset.jpg sunset2.jpg nob.jpg

upstream.jpg reflections.jpg vulcans-throne.jpg
More scenes around the Toroweep area.
stove-top.jpg tank.jpg pipe-line.jpg pool.jpg
There was an old cowboy camp on the rim at Saddle Horse Canyon. Here is a stove, watering tank and a pipe line going to a water source below the rim.


224 Responses to “Looking for the Shaman’s Gallery”

  1. Tom Rampton Says:

    Love that Toroweap area, Joe! But I’ve never made that left turn toward the Tuckup area. It’s on my list. The link given is to my photo blog. I have a badly outdated website at www.blacktail-enterprises.com

    Keep up the good exploration!

  2. Drifter Smith Says:


    It not surprising you didn’t find it. For one thing, if you were in the right area, you were near ONE HUNDRED FIFTY MILE CANYON….not “fifty mile” canyon.

    The route out to Tuckup trailhead is indeed elusive, I’ve been there a few times and I still am prone to error. Just finding the right place to leave the Toroweap Road can be a challenge.

    Should you ever get there, however, here’s something worth seeing that (far as I know) most people don’t notice: a outcrop of REAL MARBLE just below the rim, right on the trail. It’s not big, but it’s REAL MARBLE - seems like it must be the result of hydrothermal alteration of the Kaibab Limestone, associated with the nearby lava outcrop…

    - Drifter

  3. ArtLung Blog » Jacob Lake Campground Says:

    […] UPDATE: Joe Bennion also wrote about camping on Toroweap. […]

  4. SK Says:

    If you ever decide to go back, I have been there and have a GPS track to the trailhead from Tuweep Valley as well as the hiking track to the panel. It’s worth it, I took my family including a 6 year old at the time.

  5. Derek Says:

    Hi SK,

    We spent several hours today trying to find the panel and had no luck. If you could send some gps coordinates that would be great!

  6. Andy Says:

    My greatgrandpa and some of his sons ran cattle down Tuckup (hence the fence part way down the trail. There were feral cows down there until recently. The trail is more than self evident these days. Just stay on the trail and you will get there. 20 years ago there was no trail, visitation has really increased lately. The graffiti on the panel dates to around 1910 or 11…

  7. BobA Says:

    Hi SK,

    Can you send me the GPS track to the trailhead?

  8. Kay Says:

    I followed a cowboy map that you are referring to, and find the Sheman’s Gellery with no problem. Hike down to the panel, and hike up to the trailhead is not easy hike. It is long hike and not for small kid, I can’t believe 6 years old can do it??? Anyway when you want to go at next time, I can be your tour guide and take you to there, I don’t mind to see it again, it was amazing place. All you need is very high clearance car, my Toyota Highlander is not higher enough. I am living in Las Vegas, let me know.

  9. Gordon Smith Says:

    Ya know potter Im just about damb tired of people trying to debunk me finding this panel in 1986, Iff it wasnt for me you wouldnt even have heard about it, yes it had been visited and seen befor by other cowboy’s, but the park service was never informed about it, hell they didnt even have a clue it was in NPS, Dick Marks the superintendant called me a liar in a letter which I still have, he said I had sent them pictures of stuff from Austrailia, FACT. I told them no it is in Grand Canyon, So I met with and camped with Jan Balsom and her asistant at the Boundry line, now where the cattle guard is, I hiked them in to make a long story short and when they first saw it they couldnt talk in total disbelief, six months later wile wrangling dudes on the North Rim I got a letter from NPS South Rim asking me to pack in Rock art specialist Polly Shasma with mules, I packed her and her husband, Bruce Akins, and two other park service rangers, they documented the site for about 5 days, so thank me for bringing this site to light, so go pack sand buddy, Kind Regards Gordon Smith

  10. Gordon Smith Says:

    I’ll say it again GO PACK SAND. G

  11. Gordon Smith Says:

    OH, Sorry you wasnt smart enough to follow a simple map, people like you should stay home and play with your clay, blah, blah, blahhhhhhhhhh.

  12. Gordon Smith Says:

    Hey Potter, Showing a pic of a split road at June Tank trying to make me look stupid just show’s how much of a complete a– you are, you would do well working for NPS, you have the mind set, at the June tank turn off if the left fork go;s directly to the tank which is just about 100 yds and in view from where this photo was taken and dead ends in which it does, then where in the hell do you think the right fork go’s ? and where do you think the main path is ? FOLK’s NEVER MIND THESE PEOPLE THERES BEEN COWBOYS THERE BEFORE :)

  13. Gordon Smith Says:


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  15. Ridge Williams Says:

    If anyone has the GPS Coordinates for the Shamans Galley location please send it to me? rwillia43@netzero.net

  16. cher67 Says:

    You guys are making me laugh! I am from the Banff/Jasper area, and we have lots of locally known hikes we reccommend to folks we know who are visiting - great places, but not developed, so never appear in published accounts. There is an understandable worry that people will unintentionally kill themselves or their family members by not respecting the environment they are in. When I give directions that would be perfectly understood by any local, it is often not understood by a non-local. The terminology we use locally is different, and the landmarks are frequently missed by non-locals. When I say the trailhead is 300m east of the pine snag, people might not know what is east, especially in the mountains, or what a metre is, or what a snag is. The undeveloped trailheads are not wide, flat, gravelled paths, so could also be missed if that is what you are looking for. As a non-local to your area, I am unfamiliar with some of the terrain, and it is occasionally hard to sort out what is genuinely dangerous and what deserves respect and caution, but would be OK. Barring bad weather, we are really excited to visit Toroweap and Shamans Gallery. We have done a fair bit of looking at various sites with info about how to get to the trail head, cross-referenced landmarks described with satelite pics, etc, but if anyone would be willing to share GPS co-ordinates, that would be much appreciated! cher67@hotmail.ca

  17. JohnM Says:

    Hi -

    I too would like to visit. I am 56 years old and will be traveling from west coast so ANY help or guidance to avoid a wild goose chase would be much appreciated! GPS coordinates of trailhead and site would be awesome!

    Thanks in advance to anyone who feels like sharing.

    John goomba271@charter.net

  18. Kay Says:

    I created webpage to list the supplemental information addition to Mr. Gordon’s Map. I hope it will help someone, I used the Google Earth. The webpage is http://www.kayplaza.com/shaman_gordon

    Mr. Gordon, thank you for your discover, we all enjoy the amazing panel. It was my once a life experience to follow your map to find the panel, I won’t forget it all my life, it was adventure to me, especially it was solo hike/drive.

  19. Trudy Says:

    Hi Drifter Smith, I was at the trailhead this morning, walked down to the corner/ledge part and not any further. Snow and water made it too chancy for my nerves at that point.
    I noticed that piece of marble, just could not believe it really was marble. Thanks for confirming!
    I hope to return and see the Gallery. If anyone has the coordinates for the hiking track to the panel and will share, we would appreciate it also. We’re 61 years old!

  20. Gollum Says:

    Mr. Smith,

    Don’t let the bastards grind you down! HAHAHA Thanks for your discovery there and the other place. WINK The Panel is beautiful and the quarry is impressive.

  21. Dane Says:

    Just got back from the panel, it’s impressive. When I applied for a NPS Park camp overnight permit for Tuckup Canyon, I was greeted over the phone by the NPS ranger in a very unprofessional manner, not rude but inappropiate as to my obvious plans for the visit, as well as mis-leading. I will add that I’ve also seen some mis-leading GPS#’s out there. I found the site without a live contact, so do your homework and you should be able to find it. Lower clearance vehicles could easily high center and get stuck the last eight miles.

  22. JohnM Says:

    Hello Kay -
    Thank you very much for posting the information. I really appreciate the details you have provided. As some of you know, Gordon Smith’s website has been taken down.
    For what it’s worth, here is another blogspot with good details.
    Some GPS coordinates are being posted (and reposted) on the internet that I have been told are not accurate. I have yet to visit the site so can’t confirm the accuracy or inaccuracy of the coordinates.
    Hopefully will be able to visit the site soon.
    John goomba271@charter.net

  23. pligg.com Says:

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  24. kuma Says:

    Visited 2 years ago using ther cowboy map and the Benchmark map for AZ. Not too hard to find. Does anyone know approximately how far the “hades site” site is from the “shaman’s gallery” ?

  25. Marc Stephens Says:

    Gordon; I’m not suprised Dick Marks rebuffed you back then. There is a reason us NPS Rangers called him “ol’ pecker tracks” , lol. His demeanor at a public hearing in Flag, on aircraft overflights, noise, and mismanagement, was very condescending. One of us took a toy aircraft to the speaking podium and clubbed it with a baseball bat to make a point. Pecker Tracks was not amused. When I was leading a tour group into Keet Seel at Navajo national Monument in 1989, one of his minuons must have been in the group, as word got back to him about is nickname, and I was not re-hired at NAVA after 5 stellar seasons. Long live the Shamans Gallery!

    Marc, Kanab, Utah.

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